In Praise of Seiko

Collecting Swiss watches for twenty years taught me to appreciate Seiko. This might seem paradoxical — why would exposure to the best of Geneva and Biel lead toward Japan? The answer involves understanding what different watchmaking traditions offer. Value Beyond Price Seikos Grand Seiko division produces finishing that rivals Swiss pieces costing multiples more. The […]

Lessons from Buying at Auction

My first auction purchase went poorly. I bid emotionally, exceeded my predetermined limit, and won a watch that needed more work than the catalog suggested. The experience cost me money and, more importantly, taught me how not to approach auction buying. The Preparation Phase Serious auction buying starts weeks before the hammer falls. Request condition […]

Universal Geneve: The Forgotten Great

When collectors discuss mid-century Swiss watchmaking, names like Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Omega dominate. Universal Geneve rarely enters the conversation despite producing some of the periods most innovative and beautiful timepieces. The Golden Era From the 1930s through the 1960s, Universal Geneve competed at the highest levels. Their Compax and Tri-Compax chronographs rivaled anything from […]

When to Service Your Vintage Watch

Every collector eventually faces the service question. Your vintage watch runs well — perhaps a few seconds fast — but hasnt been opened in decades. Should you have it serviced? The conventional wisdom says yes. Lubricants dry out, causing wear. Metal-on-metal contact accelerates damage. Preventive service costs less than repairs. All true, in general terms. […]

The Case for a Simple Dress Watch

My collection has evolved toward simplicity. Early on, I chased complications — chronographs, perpetual calendars, moon phases. Every function seemed to justify the expense. More features meant more value, or so I reasoned. Two decades later, the watches I reach for most often display only hours, minutes, and sometimes seconds. No date, no complications, no […]

In Defense of Patina

The watch community remains divided on patina. Some collectors send vintage pieces immediately for restoration — relumed hands, refinished dials, polished cases. Others refuse to touch anything, preferring watches that show every year of their age. I fall firmly in the second camp. A watch that has lived tells stories. The faded gilt printing on […]